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Introduction:
During next several weeks I will be posting a series of lessons on how to use your on camera flash. We will be looking at using TTL, manual and auto flash modes.
Using TTL Flash Systems
In order to take professional quality photos, you need several things:
1. A professional flash that allows you to turn 180 degrees left or light and up and down.
2. A TTL matching camera flash system. (TTL) Though the lens metering system.
3. Hopefully a 18% grey object (recommended only).
In my example, I will show you the thought process that I go though before and during taking the photo.
1. Examine the room where you will be taking the shot. Look for a large area where you can bounce the flash off of the walls. Soft natural light coming from the windows is a plus. You don't want direct sunlight.
Masters-Tip: The larger the light source, the softer the light. The large light source must also be close to the subject. Soft light sources cast diffused shadows. Hard light sources like direct sunlight cast hard shadows. We don't want that. Soft light from a north window is normally the best light to use as the key. You may even want to forget the flash and use a light panel to direct fill light.
2. Position your subject as best as you can near one of your soft light sources, ie a north window if possible.
3. You want your on camera flash to be the key light. More photography talk: The key light is the main light and gives the direction to the light source. The fill light source is used to add light to shadow areas and to give a more natural look to the image. The key light is normally about 3-4 times the power of the fill light. You may reverse this if you have enough light from the window and make it the key and your flash the fill. The flash will normally try to be the key light, so watch out.
Masters-Tip: Where and when ever possible DO NOT shoot the flash directly at your subject except under conditions that we will discuss in future posts.
4. Position your self a good distance away from the subject. This may not be all that easy to do. We are trying to use the minimum wide angle lens possible to prevent those distortions mentioned on one of my earlier posts.
5. Examine the color of the walls and ceilings. If they are not white, then you are going to have a light source with that color or a color cast.
6. Use a small GOBO (that is photographer talk for "go - between"- an object that blocks direct light from hitting the subject). This may be your hand, or as we have done, the black foam tool.
Masters-Tip: Make up your Gobo with a small piece of black foam about 4 in wide and cut the length to fit the top and both sides of your flash. Add Velcro strips to the side of your flash and the Gobo. While you are at the store, buy an extra black and white sheet for future posts. Keep spares in case you lose one.
Masters-Tip: As much as possible, prevent the direct flash or any part of it striking the subject's face. This will add specularity to the skin, giving you that bright spot on the nose, cheeks, forehead, etc. You don't want that.
Masters-Tip: Don't use that pull up white strip. It will also add specularity to the skin. It is a terribly small light source.
7. Meter the room's settings without using a flash. Keep in mind your camera's flash syc speed, Tv of at least 1/60 sec to prevent movement and an initial ISO between 400-800 is a good starting point. Select the F-Stop that you want to use. For a full body shot, F-5.6 is a good starting point. Remember you want to blur the background but have the subject in focus. F-4.0 is also a good choice for a couple or single person. You can also use Av (Aperture Priority) to give you a fast shot. Check the image and setting and look at the exposure to see if it is okay. For large groups of people with several rows, F 8 might be a better choice.
8. Switch the camera to Manual Mode using the above setting and underexpose the image by one stop. You might have to vary this depending on the scene.
9. Use a custom white balance.
How to Use the custom White Balance with Canon.
A. Select custom white balance in your camera's menu. You can use short cuts on the top window or dive into the camera menu's system.
B. With the flash pointed in the general direction that you want to use, take a closeup of the brides white dress. No white dress, use a white panel, a white cloth, ect.
C. You take the shot now with this custom white balance and normally will find that it is Bluish.
D. Setup the WB Shift to a setting of 73 is good. Try to remember this number like grandma is 73. Take the picture again and the skin tones should be perfect. Adjust if not.
Masters-Tip: Custom White balances and WB shifts are ONLY GOOD for this position.
REMEMBER to delete these immediately before moving to your next location or you will have a lot of Photoshop work to do. Shooting a grey object is also a good idea.
Now you are getting ready to take the shot.
- It is all about Directional Light
- Aim you Flash Head to give you the proper Directional Light.
10. Back away and with your flash pointed normally to your right (it could be your left) aim it so as the light bounces off of the walls and comes in at the perfect angle to give you your loop lighting effect, that is a slight shadow next to the brides nose.
Masters-Tip: Use your black Gobo to prevent direct line of site flash from hitting your subjects face and giving those flash reflections.
11. Chip your shot. Tell your subject not to move as you may have to take several shots to adjust the flash output manually via the flash output setting on the back of your camera. You will see the flash exposure adjustment +- settings. I normally start at +1 when bouncing off of walls.
Masters-Tip: Shoot in manual mode. The in camera's TTL is automatic with your fine tuning. Keep shooting until you get the exposure that you want. Show the customer their beautiful photo and you will get a happy and willing bride to be patient as you take all of her shots.
Masters-Tip: Buy camera bodies that allow you to use Custom White balance and WB Shift. These should be found on most cameras. Shoot grey objects if you don't have the WB shift and fix later in Photoshop or Lightroom or other program.
Remember to delete your custom white balance and WB Shift before moving to the next location. You can continue to use these settings for all of your shots at this location.
Masters-Tip: At no time should you have to remove red-eye as your flash never bounces off of the backs of the subjects eyes.
Practice to improve your speed at taking photos.
Kirk is a Professional Wedding Photographer in Windsor Ontario Canada. In appreciation if you would be so kind as to give a G+ and a Facebook Like KW Masters Photography on his Facebook page. You only have to do this once and add your likes and G+ per post.
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